CHICAGO PUBLIC ART # 25 - SKYSPACE - 2005

The last one - the very last one! (unless you count the granite fountain in back of the Art Institute, which I will check periodically, since I go there every month) I have been at this since last August, I think. And unless I hear that the neon is working in the police station. In 18 years, I have never seen The Fountain of Time with a drop of water, so I have given up on that.

This one, called "Skyspace", and not unique in the States, but the only free-standing one, was created by James Turrell. He has several of these about the U. S. It is in the heart of UIC (University of Illinois at Chicago) at the corner of Halsted and Roosevelt, the southwest corner. And if a movie sound man ever wanted to record traffic sounds of city life, this is the place. Peaceful, it is not.

And that's too bad, for the building itself could lend itself to serenity and quiet. But not here. The pictures better describe this elliptical building better than I can. Supposedly "it acts as an observatory for changes in the colors of the sky that he [Turrell] orchestrates in the hours after dusk and hour before dawn. The effort stands alone in public art in Chicago." Per Alan Artner, art critic of the Chicago Tribune.

Well, I was there last nite, April 17th, and I observed no changes. Waited around from 7:30 to 8:00. Nada. But I figure someone would have to reset this all the time, taking into account the changing times for dawn and sunset, and Daylight Saving Time. It was a wonderful space, but the traffic zooming by just ruins it, for me. Halsted and Roosevelt are major arteries in Chicago and this corner is very busy.

I wonder why they (UIC) sited it there. Lots of benches to sit on for reflection and to look up at the sky through the oval hole in the ceiling. And a majestic view of the city to the northeast, where the skyline is fabulous.















Some final words about this 8 1/2 month project:

First of all, I enjoyed in immensely. Finding all these places was in itself a kick. So many I never knew were there, or had little appreciation for, until I actually came face to face with them. As in The Bowman and The Spearman, or Cloud Gate, or Buckingham Fountain, and even "I WIl", that piece at Cannon Drive and Fullerton that I had passed for decades.

The one that hit me between the eyes, so to speak, and that I will long remember, was "Radiant One'. I purely loved it. I guess my favorite is still "Fountain of Time"; it is so monumental, and evocative of human suffering and joy. It speaks to me, as all good art should do to an observer. Maybe not every observer, every time, as art appeals differently to each person, but at least to one human, once.

My truly detested one was "Reading Cones". I could rave on about how much I disliked it, but you should make your own judgment. Maybe you will be the one it speaks to.
So go out and find these for yourself. They're worth the effort.

I should also note that I will be off for a while, as traveler that I am, in a few weeks I will be in France for 10 days. Lyon and a famous Le Corbusier abbey just outside it.
La Tourette. And when I return, gardening season will be upon me hard.

CHICAGO PUBLIC ART # 24 - CLOUD GATE-2004

On the same glorious day that we went to Buckingham Fountain, we first went to the now practically world-famous "Bean".

Done by Anish Kapor, it is sited in Millenium Park on Michigan Avenue between Madison and Monroe Streets. Just look for the crowds. I might add that we ate lunch at The Park Grill, right under "The Bean" and were pleasently surprised, both at the quality of the food and the prices. I can heartily recommend the hamburger and their fries, which were terrific, and I don't much even like fries.

Artner: "This 21st Century equivalent of a grand ceremonial arch or gate to an ancient city additionally reflects the heavens and some of Chicago's important architectural legacy. (The work is popularly - and foolishly - nicknamed the Bean."

Now I had seen this a zillion times and never once saw it for what it really is, an arch, a gateway to our city. And that makes so much sense when you look at it, really look at it, disregarding the reflections and hordes of people. It gives it so much more stature and importance to me. Yes, it does look like a bean, there's no denying that, but the real title "Cloud Gate" fits it better. It is a gate that reflects the clouds.
A gate to our wondrous city.

CTA BUS ROUTE #6 - JACKSON PARK EXPRESS

A while ago, because it's been so long since I did a bus route (I see it was over two months ago), I decided to just set a date. Do the 6th route on April 6th and marked it on my calendar. Wouldn't you know the morning dawned with wet, heavy snow over all the tree branches, looking beautiful, but also looking like early March. "Ah well," I said to myself, "I won't be gardening today anyway." So I caught the 10:13 train into the city (sans breakfast, but with plenty of coffee to fortify me, and a peanut butter on raisin toast in my purse). Weather prospects - cold, windy
And a rather non-informative bus sign, wouldn't you say?

The cold, green river today.

This bus departs from Wacker and Columbus (and do the CTA people realize that there is both an upper and a lower Wacker and Columbus?). Because it is not at all clear on the map that this bus departs from the upper level. Basically in front of the Swiss Hotel. It travels via Lake Shore Drive to 79th and South Shore Drive.
Fortunately I guessed right as to the departure area, because, yes, it was damn cold and windy, espceially right down there by the river and lake. I was remembering the time I had finding the start of that #4 bus.

Looking east, above. And the Seventh Day Adventist Church which rounds its corner nicely on Wacker.
11:40 am - I'm on the bus . It crosses Michigan going west on Wacker to State, where it turns south. I see that Leonard Cohen is coming to the Chicago Theatre May 5th and 6th. Past the DePaul Loop campus. And what could be more famous than the Marshall Field Clock, above?

It is crowded somewhat by Congress. There are police cars back to back next to the bus at a stop light. Left on Balbo. The South Loop Club is on the corner, a fab building which looks interesting. Past the Merle Ruskin Theatre, part of DePaul now. Across Michigan, south on Columbus to 11th, where it now becomes an express to 47th Street down Lake Shore Drive. Past the Museum Campus and Soldier Field, that space ship in the sky. It is going entirely too fast for pics, drat. Because bus riding is a great way to see the sights. I never tire of them.
The lake is grey, ominous, choppy. Waves crashing on shore. Glad I'm comfy and warm inside here. Low clouds, but no snow here. Or else it all melted. The trees have that lovely, lacy look of early spring.
As the bus turns off on 47th I see that the viaduct has a fab-u-lous mural. But can't get shot.
Left on Lake Park, same as #2, Hyde Park Express. But this one turns left on East Hyde Park, and goes through the intersection of South Hyde Park Avenue and East Hyde Park Avenue. Only in Chicago (I hope). Past the glorious houses on Hyde Park to end up facing The Museum of Science and Industry. I see that here it's very windy. There is a New Jersey license plate next to me. Right on 57th and left on Stoney Island which is 1600 East. You could take this bus to U. of C. and Doc Films, among others that go down here. Past the shuttered Hyde Park Hospital, cause of much debate over its future.

And to add to my lack of picture-taking opportunities, the windows are rather dirty, so I chose to sit on the left, which leaves the whole street between me and anything I might want to capture. We are going all down the length of Jackson Park, not inconsiderable. Hit 67th at 12:20 pm. The bus turns east here. Past a golf course and another fab building at Brandon. All the way to South Shore Drive, which is merely the southern extension of Lake Shore Drive. Past the South Shore Cultural Center, which, hallelujah, I did manage to get in the camera. (I would say on film, but those days are almost gone.) Now the bus kind've weaves in and out, east, west, south, etc. Til it reaches it's terminus at 79th. But I have noticed that along the way there are some spiffy buildings right up against the lake. They must have a marvelous view. The South Shore neighborhood contains some of the best old architecture in the city. Please, please let us preserve it.

The end is a rather bleak open space close to the lake, but I cross the street and am immediately back on a north bound bus by 12:37pm. It was so fast that I had no time to take a picture of the bus or the bus sign.

Again, dirty windows. I have been passing so very many neat old buildings and no chance to take any pictures. Down here is where Public Art #3 is. On one of those buildings, just not on this route. But very walkable from one of the stops. There is a wonderful building at 7370 South Shore, The Faulkner School (I love that name) at Cole and South Shore. 6850 is neat, and there is a glorious view of the city at 67th and South Shore. Well, down here most of the buildings are glorious too. An empty bus so far. Some forsythia struggling to out itself at 63rd. We pass the Hyde Park Academy Environmental Nature Studies Park - a teeny space.



It's the same route back, for the most part, except when we leave LSD, we travel north on Michigan, not State. And so far, wonder of wonders, not one stroller. We pass the Kenwood Academy on Lake Park, across from the terrific Original Pancake House at 49th. The Ancona School at 47th.

Little tidbit of trivia here. The reason the sidewalk on Congress past the Auditorium is enclosed is because when they widened Congress years ago, they didn't have enough room here for the sidewalk, and required the then hotel to give up some of it's lobby space for that sidewalk. I never tire of the sights on North Michigan.

I was back at the river end by 1:30. Really a very quick trip, given the distance covered. I managed the 2:40 train home. And never thought I'd be through so early.